“Get off your horse and drink your milk.”
John Wayne
The six photos here have all got to do with the American
West and attempts to keep the legend alive, so let’s start in London, at the Fancy Dress Studio at
37 Oxford St, sometime between 1910 and 1920. One can forgive the English for
getting a few details wrong; they weren’t there after all, and no real cowboy
ever posed with a gothic manor in the background, but the woollen chaps?
Somehow around the turn of the century the idea got about and then became
fixated that woollen chaps were a standard part of the cowboy’s outfit. As we
have come to understand things, chaps were worn by Native Americans and then by
Mexicans as a way to protect the legs when riding through thick scrub. Wool,
you’d think, would only attract thorns and burrs and make things worse. Another
point you can forgive the English for because it was Americans who spread the
idea, was that cowboys were bred musical. By the time this photo was taken you
couldn’t dress as a cowboy without strapping on a gun and holding a ukulele. You
get the impression real riders of the purple sage did nothing else except sit
in the saddle and yodel at the cows. No wonder they complained theirs was a
lonely life.
This image has it all, the cattle scattered across the wide
open plain, the solitary cowpokes, the mesas in the distance. Welcome to
Wyoming, battleground of the Johnson County War and close to the Hole in the
Wall, legendary hideout of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid’s Wild Bunch
gang. We’re in the heart of the Old West, a time and a place that has passed,
though you wouldn’t know it from the photo. Maybe you have to live in a certain
part of the US, map-wise on the left side of Nebraska and Kansas, to believe
that America was born in the west, but you’d have a lot of arguments on your
side. From the moment its death was announced people have kept the Old West
alive, a cottage industry of small town photographers as much as anyone. This
scene probably wasn’t staged but it’s a fair bet the photographer knew that on
a certain day the ranch hands would be moving a small herd of cattle a short
distance, maybe to an auction, and drove out, knowing exactly what image he or
she wanted and was guaranteed to get.
There are ghost towns all over the world but they have a
special association with the American West, especially with gold and silver mines
and dozens still litter the lower edges of the Sierra Nevada where the 1849 gold
rush took place. The wind moans through the broken shutters, the tumbleweed bounces
erratically through the dust. In the 1930s Buena Park berry farmer Walter Knott
thought a way to expand business at the roadside stand where his wife Cordelia
sold her fried chicken dinners and raspberry pies was to keep the customers
hanging about, so he built a few attractions including a twelve foot high
volcano and a mine shaft where diners could pretend to pan for gold. In 1940 he
began buying up buildings and salvaging furniture, wagon wheels and implements
from actual ghost towns around California and Arizona and trucking them in.
Knott took pride in his research, making sure that every feature of his ghost
town came from the period and it took two decades to complete. In the meantime
it was a serious rival for Disneyland, just down the road.
More singing cowboys … Out west, the early pioneers were
told, was the land of opportunity, meaning that if you had an idea, the nerve
to risk it and a little luck you could go far. In 1931 pharmacist Ted Hustead
bought a small drugstore in Wall, population about 200 and just outside of
South Dakota’s Badlands. The one thing the town had going for it was Mount
Rushmore, 100 kms away and pulling in the tourists while it was still under
construction. Hustead had a similar idea to Knott but on a grander scale,
figuring that a department store was just what the middle of nowhere needed and
a few life size models of dinosaurs would help draw the customers. He was
right. Today the Wall Drug Store has an estimated turnover of $10 million a
year. The animatronic cowboy orchestra was one of Hustead’s early strokes of
genius and today it has a revered place behind glass.
In 1937 Edward Weston came across a man’s corpse out in the
Colorado Desert in southern California and photographed it. We’re not really
sure what happened after that, whether Weston set off immediately to tell the
police or if he wanted to whether he’d even know how to find it again. Such is
life and if you believe the stories the deserts of the southwest were littered
with the desiccated, vulture picked bodies of men who’d gone out to find
something and only got lost. The grizzled old prospector wandering through the
desert with only his mules for company is one of the classic images of the
Southwest, so much that if you actually encountered one on the trail you’d know
pretty much exactly where you were.
As the word suggests, rodeo was a Mexican invention and it
didn’t become emblematic of the Old West until that was gone to dust. In the
late 19th century rodeos were found all over the US but cities like
Chicago and New York began to doubt their relevancy and soon they were mostly
found in places where the myth of the cowboy needed to be kept alive, like
Pendleton in Oregon, home to the Roundup established in 1910. At that time
Walter Bowman ran one of the town’s photo studios and was little known outside
its perimeters but in the early days of the Roundup he made his name with
action shots like this, taken in 1912, at a time other photographers were
struggling to photograph a Model T on the move. Talking of speed, Bowman was
the first person in Pendleton to own a car and was once arrested for speeding
at 12 mph down the main street. He was killed in a car accident in 1938.
WAY OUT WEST |